![]() Her mom, who lives in Hong Kong, had been diagnosed with early-onset Alzheimer’s, and Yam was grief-stricken. She’d been vegetarian for a decade before eating meat again during 2020. They felt as if they were being welcomed back to a special club when they told friends and family they were finally eating meat again.įor Genevieve Yam, a 30-year-old food editor and Bon Appétit contributor living in Yonkers, New York, animal products reminded her of family when she needed it most. ![]() And others became social omnivores who simply wanted to partake in shared meat dishes while dining out with friends. In the majority of my interviews, people mentioned social and emotional drivers, like missing the foods they grew up with, feeling estranged from their cultures, and not wanting to cook two different meals for themselves and their partners or children. While many former vegetarians do start eating meat again for health reasons, their desire for animal flesh often isn’t about individual nutrients at all. ![]() Protein deficiency is virtually unheard of in the US, according to the Physicians Committee for Responsible Medicine.) (Does that mean we need to be piling our plates with steak, like the Atkins, keto, and paleo dieters? Not at all. Meat is full of protein, which our bodies are designed to “prioritize and actively seek out,” Zaraska wrote. And why, even having never tasted meat before, Oliver and Parameswaran felt its allure. That explains why, like Sent, we might literally dream about animal flesh over pumpkin seeds, purple cabbage, or plump bananas. No matter how plentiful other foods may be, we’ve long shared a “craving for animal flesh.” Scientists have a name for the phenomenon: “ meat hunger,” an evolutionary drive to secure protein-rich foods. It’s likely been a thing since our primate ancestors started accidentally eating worms who had burrowed into fruits about 65 million years ago, Marta Zaraska wrote in Meathooked: The History and Science of Our 2.5-Million-Year Obsession with Meat. Many interviewees felt the same intense, almost primal relationship with meat.
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